What is the best case to build an engine off of?
Quote 0 0
Ryan
While I have a high degree of respect for John I do differ on a few things in that excerpt.  I definately recommend a new case if budget allows, if not the try to find an AS21 case in good shape.  No more than 1st over on the mains.  Even new cases can have problems, go over it with a fine tooth comb.
That said I started with a new case a few years back so I know it's complete history.  I've put over 60k miles on it, had the lifter bores bushed and 1st line bore done about 10k ago,,, I'm hard on my engine.  After the line bore, I do have slightly lower oil pressure, but still well within safety limits.
Always use OE head studs, I feel confident enough saying use whatever you're setup for, 8mm or 10mm.  I use 10mm studs and haven't had problems with them.  But OE is the key here, they can be purchased new from the right sources.  That said, I'd rather even take used original studs from a junkyard over the garbage aftermarket 'stock' studs.  If you need something stronger then chromoly is the next step, after that something like Raceware.  If you know you need these, then you don't need my help. 
Quote 0 0
Thanks guys, that helps me alot.
Quote 0 0
Wayne
Here's some info courtesy of AirCooled.net:

Quote:
The engine case is what holds everything together, so selection and preparation are critical. Use a new case. Simple. NO LINE BORED CASES. Line boring is a Band-Aid, and will most likely result in overheating and low oil pressure problems soon after the engine is built. Don't compromise, and use a new case. The used ones out there are worn out, and not up to the task, so just factor a new case and machining into your budget from the beginning. A quality machine shop (we can steer you to one) is capable of doing the required machine work to make an 82/84 X 94mm engine (2275/2332cc) a SLIP IN. You heard that right. I field questions all the time from people who want more performance, but who are hesitant or simply won't consider something larger than a 74mm stroke because they are afraid of "clearancing". When the parts arrive from the machine shop, or us, just clean 'em up, assemble the engine, make sure everything clears, and that's it. The mystery and concern regarding parts clearancing for large engines is overrated and a highly misunderstood part of performance engine assembly. 86 mm and longer strokes, however, do require more attention to assembly detail.Use 8mm head studs. New cases have case savers (Helicoils) built in, and these are far stronger than head studs threaded directly into the case. Use factory VW 8mm head studs (used are fine), since they expand and contract at the correct rate, and keep head torque constant. 10mm studs don't do this, and that's why 10mm stud engines have a problem with pulled studs.

John - AirCooled.Net
Quote 0 0