ive rebuilt the carb tuned it for the most part but it still wont idle what else could be wrong ? it will idle for maybe a second of two then will stall even with constant pressure on the gas at low rpm it will eventually drop in rpm and stall but if you blip the throttle or are moving theres no problem until i stop it will stall if i dont keep tapping the throttle. oh its a 74 super 34 pict carb
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I'm assuming you're running a Solex carb here. I've got the 68-71 version so I will describe what I know based on that model. There is the screw with the spring that you adjusted to tune the carb, and on the other side there is an idle adjustment screw. It will have a wide slot in it with what appears to be a ball bearing inside. Pull that screw out and blast all of the holes with carb cleaner.

You might also want to check and see if you have gas consistently filling the bowl...if not, blast the needle and seat valve with carb cleaner.

Check the fuel pump as well, if it's not strong enough it won't let the car idle.
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MY72BUG
Hi Beetleman:   I've been there with the no idle on the Pict Carburetor.  It took a while but I finally prevailed over this device.  Here is a good starting point.
 Remove the carb.  Look into the venturi of the carb and you will see a progression of double holes right in the wall of the venturi.  As the throttle plate opens, more of these holes are exposed.  When the throttle plate closes, it closes completely unlike most carbs which leave a pre-measured gap between the plate and the wall of the venturi.  The air supply for the idle comes through that hole in the throttle plate. The gas supply for the idle comes through the lowest of the two holes in the wall of the venturi.  These MUST remain exposed when the throttle plate is closed or you won't have an idle.  ( no gas - no idle )  And here is a long shot.  Notice that the hole in the throttle plate is offset.  This hole must be on the side of the venturi where the idle holes are located.  I had my idle plate in backwards ( it still fits beautifully) so the idle air was on the WRONG side of the venturi.   I took a piece of super fine stainless steel wire and cleaned out all of the holes in the walls of the venturi and flipped my throttle plate over so that the idle air and the idle fuel were on the same side of the carb.  Instant and perfect idle.
Another guilty party is the fuel shutoff solenoid at the base of the carb.  This cylindrical thing has a single wire going to it.  If the wire falls off or the solenoid doesn't " click " as the ignition key is turned on ( opening the fuel flow )  you will not have an idle.  I went to a car show back in the summer and as soon as I took my foot off of the gas pedal the car died.  It was a blistering hot day so I had visions of vapour lock or any number of overheating notions.  I lifted the engine cover and there was the wire for the fuel shut off hanging in space.  Wire returned, perfect idle restored, lesson learned.
Check your carb setup using several different books.  Follow the steps and see if that helps.  If the carb has not seen a complete rebuild, buy a kit and install it after you have parked your parts in a good strong cleaning solution.  Above all, clean out those little holes and look for a backwards throttle plate.  Good luck with the project.  Let us know how it comes out.  Dan (MY72BUG) in Goderich, Ont.


I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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Just wanted to say i would check for a vac leak if you can get it to idle above 1400 rpms or you can make the timing hot and it will go.. my car was doing that not to recently ago and it had a vac leak on the intake.. One of the plugs I had in it came up plugged..

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VW_Store_Misty

I myself have found a few different issues with the carbs.  The one thing I have found other then what everyone else has already posted is this past year in particular is that the gas itself is not rich enough to sustain normal running even at idle.  I would #1 make sure you have 92 or higher gas.  &#2 What you might have to do is actually upgrade the main jet in your carb.  If all these others (besides turning your dist. & making it run hot WHICH IS A NO NO! UNLESS you want to cook your engine!!) then I would look to upgrading your main jet.  There a cheap and easy to fix.

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You don't need over 87octane gas to run a vw.... I constantly get regular unleaded.. If I run premium it doesn't make the car run any better..

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VW_Store_Misty

We build VW Engines for a living.  I have found through trial and error that the high alcohol levels in the gas today are much different then the gas 40-50 years ago.  Here in PA where we live we have started to have to use our 92 gas in order to make our engines run correctly.  In the past year they have added more alcohol to our gas.  It was posted as for a reference if nothing else works it's better to try something then nothing at all.  In your area maybe they haven't changed the gas concentration as much as they have already started to here.  But if you run into the same problem maybe you will find yourself using my information.  This was not posted to start a rumble this was posted to help someone in need with information that we have found to help fix our problems we have had ourselves.

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onedragonwarrior

i have been fighting the same problem with my 34 pict 3 , it is a almost new carb, i rebuilt it but it did not change anything, i am running the good grade fuel, i just pulled the carb off and the butterfly hole is on the same side of the venturia, i guess i will see if the holes are stopped up by running a piece of wire thru it, i have checked for vacuum leaks and found none,

it doesn't matter how good looking she is, somewere somebody is sick of her crap
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onedragonwarrior

o.k. i have checked the holes in the side and one was stopped up, i got it open and it will idle now but is erratic,  i will test drive it for a few miles ( when it warms up above 30 lol ) and see how it does, it might startin out some?

it doesn't matter how good looking she is, somewere somebody is sick of her crap
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