Hello All - I saw this same problem with another member but I can not figure mine out.  One day, i went to start up my 71 Super, put the key in and nothing.  normally i would get the lights (gen and oil) in the gauge to light up but they did not come on nor did anything else happen such as the starter try to kick in.  The head lights work and the key buzzer works but that is about it.  The other person that had a similar problem discovered that there alt was bad and pulling the battery to ground when trying to start.  looking at the schematics it seemed to make sense so i disconnected the 3 wires off of the alt and figured this would at least allow me to get the car started and prove that the alt is the problem.  When I did this, there was no change.  My next step i think is to remove the ignition key switch but before i dug into new territory, i was hoping i might get some advice from someone that may have had a similar problem.  Any help or advice is appreciated!  Thanks, John 

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MY72BUG
Good strong headlights should indicate that your problem is not in the battery.  Even a nearly done battery should give you some clicking down at the starter solenoid.  Two years ago when I was getting my convertible out of storage, I had a no start situation.  There was the starter turning over but no power at the coil for spark.  I tested it with a spare coil - no  difference.  There are several different versions of the ignition switch.  In mine ( and possibly yours because the years are close together ) the electrical part of the switch is separate from  the key cylinder part.  By pulling the steering wheel off you can access the switch.  It is an intricate little darling but you can take it apart.  Before you go too far, put a 12 volt tester at the coil.  When you engage the ignition switch does power arrive at the coil?  Same thing for the starter.  Get under there and put a simple 12 volt tester on it.  You can cobble one from a 12 volt light bulb.  When your assistant turns the ignition key, is there power at the starter?  This line  is not fused, don't forget.  Check all of the connections under the back seat in and around the voltage regulator.  A wire off here or even a connection that has become loose could be your problem.  In mine, the no start proved to be a bad ignition switch.  Inside the switch, there is a "Y" shaped piece.  The movement of the key  advances its position.  One upper arm of the Y was making contact and sending power to the starter.  The other was NOT making contact, so no power to the coil !!  Like I said, you can open the switch.  I did, I bent the one back to the point where it again made contact.  Power to the coil and a running engine - just like that.  If you do have power in the ignition switch but no power coming out - replace ( or if you're cheap like me ) or repair the switch.  They are readily available, just remember to specify which one you have electrical part separate or cylinder and electrical made as a unit.  Problematic ignition switches are a fairly common problem with bugs.  That is why you will see so many of the old ones have a toggle switch for power to the coil and a good old fashioned sprung push button for the starter.  If you don't have John Muir's book " How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive " buy one and read it.  Old John does an ace job of debugging no start situations.  Don't up and spend a fortune on a generator or alternator or such until you have tried the cheap fixes first.   MY72BUG
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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cyanide_music
nah. erm, i had this. well what it was, was, yea, headlights, totally fine, and other things, i think wipers, ect. but no start, basically nothing, not even starter motor click.

the battery may have good voltage, but if it can't supply current it will have no 'ummpphh'. so some thing lke engine cranking which is 'heavy load' the battery will not be able to supply to.

i just replaced my battery and all was well!
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