VW 69 bettle, When I start it, it works OK, But after running for 10 Minutes, and I slow down, the engine just turns off, and no lights on the odometer (oil and battery lights).

After 3 to 4 minutes, the lights come ON, and then I can start the engine again. But then it happens again......

 

I do not know what it could be. Please help!!!!!

 

You can ask me questions....... I will reply quick.

 

Thanks

Quote 0 0
Juju

This is a nightmare for a car owner.  I have no more of a clue than you do.  It seems as though its a thermal problem that opens a circuit when its hot and cools down and works.  I have seen a coil fail like that once, it had a wire in the winding that separated when hot, so you might look at the coil.  The other thought is that perhaps the distributer is grounding a wire in the condensor area.  As I said these are just guesses and may be a mile from your problem. The reason I replied was I would like to know when you find it, what it turns out to be.  It is good to learn from these things.  Thanks and good luck. 

Quote 0 0
MY72BUG
Without getting my hands on the car I think you may be dealing with a bad ignition switch.  When the car dies does it refuse to crank at all ?  When it dies do you have power at the coil ?  Get yourself a cheap 12 volt circuit tester one of the ones which is not much more than a light and two wires with alligator clips on the ends.  Pull the negative wire off of your coil.  Clip one tester wire to it and attach the other tester wire to ground on the engine block.  Key the ignition switch.  Do you get a light ?  Go the wire cluster  where it goes into the back of the ignition switch.  Is it loose ?  You can pull the steering wheel and remove the ignition switch and even take the ignition switch apart if it appears that the switch is consistently or periodically failing to send power to the coil.  Keep checking for  1. bad ground wires  2. dirty or loose wiring connections  Pick up a Haynes or similar book and examine the wiring diagrams.  Follow where the wires go and wherever they end make sure that they are tight and clean.  Look at the wiring under your back seat.  Bad connections there will do you in rather quickly.  In the spring of 2004 I had a no start situation when I pulled my car out of storage.  There was no power at the coil and the guilty party was the ignition switch.  I took it apart and determined which lead was not working.  A simple bend on a " Y " shaped moveable connection fixed it.  See if this helps your situation.  MY 72 BUG   Dan in Goderich, Ont.
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
Quote 0 0

Thank you very much for your feedback, it is really great to know that somebody will be able to help you..... that makes me like my bug more, because I can do the job myself.

 

Let me add a little bit more of info.

 

When the car was running for 10 or 15 minutes, i said it turns off, then a do not have the lights (oil and charge in the odometer), BUT when I started (try to turn on the engine again) it tried to start!!!!!  with no luck, but with no lights on the odometer, the front lights were working but not the odometer, and it WILL try to start, but nothing........ then wait like a five minutes, and then the lights will come on, tried to start again and it will start successfully for another five minutes run, then die again.

 

I will buy that tester, and try what you suggest.... thanks for the info, and if you have more ..... please.. please let me know

 

Thanks

Quote 0 0
MY72BUG
The best way to approach a no start or failure to keep running problem is to remember the golden triad of a running engine.   1. fuel supply ( is the engine receiving a steady supply of clean uncontaminated gas?)  2. compression  (does each cylinder have good rings, valves and compression seals to allow it to build up a minimum acceptable level of compression? )  3. Spark at the right strength and right time ( does your ignition system deliver a strong spark at the spark plug at the correct time ? )  When all of these happen - you have a running engine.  Somewhere yours is failing on one of these three.  Work by process of elimination.  Do a compression test.  Check for the fuel flow ( fuel filter, fuel pump and the line from the tank )  You must eliminate #1 and #2  before you attack #3.  If it is a lack of spark, test each of the spark plug wires by slipping a small scewdriver into the plug's rubber boot and bring the shaft of the screwdriver close to ground at the block.  Crank the engine.  Repeat for each plug.  Pull the plugs and connect them into the plug wire boot.  Ground the bottom electrode on the block.  Crank the engine and look for a spark at the plug's gap.  Keep working backwards on the ignition system testing the distributor cap, the rotor, the points,the coil wire, the coil, and the wire from the ignition switch and the switch itself.  There are trouble-shooting methods in the various do-it-yourself manuals.  Follow them and don't skip any steps.  You will eventually come across the problem and a solution may be quite simple.  Don't forget that even though your car is showing electical problems, this is not a guarantee that the dies after 10 minutes is also an electrical problem.   This  could be fuel supply and the loss of generator and oil lights could be wiring or dirty connections and have nothing to do with the engine quitting!   Patience, persistence and process of elimination on the golden triad - that is the direction you want to go.  MY72BUG

I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
Quote 0 0