Hey, I own a 65 bug but my brother picked up a 64 bus and it has nothing, we are both pretty new to the whole vw scene but are trying to learn. The question I have is in the early buses did they use a type one engine or was it something else, We have found 1600 dp that we could easily upgrade and wonder if it would work or if it is even worth it. Please help.
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Wayne
"Yes, the engines are interchangeable.  The air cleaners are different."
 
Bus Boys, Inc.
Redding, CA
http://www.busboys.cc
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Wayne

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The early bugs and busses were close and are interchangeable with modifications. Yes, it is a type 1 engine. It is a single port and not a dual port. You might want to post your question or search the archives at http://www.VINTAGEBUS.COM. I am sorry that I could not be of more assistance to you.

- Karen Pochuski

The Bus Depot, Inc.
http://www.busdepot.com
(215) 234-VWVW

 

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Marc
Bus Boys web site wrote:
...The early bugs and busses were close and are interchangeable with modifications....
It's those "modifications" that need to be discussed in more depth for a newbie to understand what he's in for.The biggest hurdle is getting the correct flywheel/transmission/clutch combination. First question, will he be converting the bus to 12V (and if so how soon) or converting the engine to 6V? The correct flywheel to adapt the late engine to a 6V transmission is fairly rare - it's a 109-tooth with O-ring seal and 200mm clutch...they only were used on buses and Type IIIs in the latter part of 1966. An earlier non-O-ring version could be used but they rely upon a gasket between the crank and flywheel to keep oil off the clutch, a less-desirable setup.

One option is to buy a replacement ring gear (Gene Berg has 'em) and have the teeth milled off of a 12V flywheel and the new ring gear pressed in place - this has a major advantage in that the teeth are harder than those on the original 6V flywheel and will last far longer should you opt to convert the bus to 12V but leave a 6V starter in it (installing a 12V solenoid on the 6V starter will make both the 'wheel and starter last longer too). If he's definitely going 12V, there's no need to change the flywheel but the bellhousing will need to be ground out in five places because the 130-tooth 12V 'wheel is about 1/8" larger in diameter. Then you must either install a special adapter bushing to fit a standard 12V starter, or pick up an AutoStick starter which is self-supporting and needs no bushing.

Dualport engines first appeared in 1971 - that same year the design of the clutch cover and release bearing was changed, so if the engine has a late cover on it that'll have to be replaced with a pre`71 part which has a thrust ring in the center for the release bearing to contact (311 141 025E is the P/N they're usually sold under).I haven't discussed 180mm clutch setups because they aren't adequate for a bus IMO, even with a "heavy duty" or "Porsche" cover...stay with 200mm, you'll be glad you did in the long run.If the engine will be converted to 6V, the coil and carburetor choke heating elements will need to be replaced (or the choke could be disabled and left disconnected). If it has the correct 34PICT-3 carburetor there is no 6V idle cutoff jet available, so you'd have to cut the plunger off of the 12V one and live with any running-on that results. If the engine has a singleport carburetor grafted on with an adapter plate, a 6V idle cutoff jet is available.You can get a large-diameter 6V generator which'll take the same pedestal, pulley, strap, and sheetmetal as the 12V one (but it'll need a remotely-mounted voltage regulator, sold separately) or you could use the more common small-diameter unit that comes with regulator attached (but it'll need the 6V version of all of those parts).

If you leave the engine 12V and it has a generator, a remote regulator will be needed; same goes if it has an early externally-regulated alternator. If it already has (or you install) an internally-regulated alternator that won't be needed and the wiring will be a little simpler.

One caveat, some carburetors don't clear an alternator properly without grinding a notch in the housing and the fuel pump may need to be changed for clearance.Converting the rest of the car over to 12V is fairly simple (all of the wiring should be more than adequate since 12V loads draw half the current for the same wattage), the biggest problem is how to deal with the wiper motor. Fortunately there's a replacement armature available that makes that a fairly simple/inexpensive proposition: http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_01_02/wired_01_02.htm

That should be enough for now; I don't frequent this forum so if you need more info and can't wait, feel free to p-mail me at marcvellat@yahoo.com
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