Mine ain't nor ordinary Beetle any more, thanks to two Buicks (one from behind shoved me into another).  It is a Baja now, but I've owned it since January 1979.  It is possessed, or possessive, which ever way you wanna look at it.  Had the cash in my hand to sell it once, but it wouldn't start.  Gave the guy his money back, and he didn't get outta sight, and it started right up.  Go figger.
It's just a toy now, with 88 x 64's  on it, and used to have twin Solex 40's on it, but too much vibration from the Empi cam, and I can't keep 'em balanced, so going back to the Weber progressive.  Was gonna strip all the tin off and give it a good cleaning while in the process, cause it sat at my mom's place for nearly 5 years in a lean-to shed.  Needless to say, the elements did the chromed tin no favors.
Now for the main reason I'm here.  When I got the tin off the 1/2 side, I found one of the nuts laying on the cooling fins.  THIS IS NOT A GOOD SIGN I thought to myself.  So, I said "Self, go get the torque wrench and put it back on."  I should have noticed there were exposed threads on the stud at the block end before I even bothered.  But, a couple turns with the wrench set at 15 ft-lbs, and nothing got tighter, so I said "Self, this is a WORSE sign"
The short block has less than 1000 miles on it, but it did run pretty crappy when I got it back from my mom's place.  I don't think sitting up did it many favors at all in a lot of ways, but I'm sure some of the pinging, missing, popping, snorting, coughing, wheezing, and any other bodily function noise you can think of possibly pushed a little too hard on the head, and popped the stud in the block.  My question is, does anyone make a kit with an extremely long tap that I can install a helicoil in the block without removing the cylinders, or am I doomed to a minor rebuild?  Gotta stop this before it ruins the brand-new heads I put on it when I built it last.  Like I said, this build has barely 1000 miles on it. 
I wanna get it back together before summer for a little fun with the teen-aged boys.  Putting the Weber progressive back on it will tone it down a little, and maybe make it a little safer to teach them how to drive in it.  It's certainly cheaper to fix than my truck if they forget the purpose of that third pedal.  I can buy rebuilt Bug trannies for $150.  One for the truck is about $1500.  This is a no-brainer.  Albeit, with the pretty radical cam thhat's in it, it'll teach them some bad driving habits right off the bat.  Gotta keep the R's up on this engine, or it has NO power.  Not exactly fuel efficient in the city, but it'll still hit about 21-22 highway with the Weber on it.  Best I could get with the Solex's was about 16.  You can empty a 10 gallon tank in a hurry at that rate.  And to think I remember pitching a fit when it cost me $3.00 to fill up my '63.
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The operative word here is " ouch ".  I can picture what you are trying to do with the helicoil but by the time you accomplish this you will be by far better off pulling the heads and doing a top end on the engine.  If one stud is pulled out, the odds are that you are just scratching the surface of a bigger job.  Fix that one and you will be kicking yourself when further problems crop up and you are looking at pulling the engine and going down that whole road again.  In for a penny, in for a pound.  Do it now before the season is upon you.  Take the short block to a good machine shop and let them work their magic.  Finish the top end yourself and all should be sweetness and light.  Dan ( MY72BUG) in Goderich
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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That was kinda my sentiment when I saw it.  Very disheartening to say the least.  That's what I get for using a used block on the last build.  I'm kinda surprised, though, because I've done business with the guy I had build the short-block for me for YEARS.  I got it from him sans studs, only to find out the 8 mm studs I had were too small.  It had already been bored for 10 mm studs.  Unfortunately, this one looks like it survived a fire, sorta, or spent part of it's life in some salt.  Some pretty nasty pitting on that side of the block, and the threads were probably damaged when the original studs were removed.  I coated them with loc-tite when I put 'em on, but I still remember that one feeling a little loose even after running it in all the way.  Guess I know now why.

There's a little bit of carbon on the head right next to the stud in question where it started leaking, but I'm hoping I don't have to have these heads resurfaced when I tear it down again.  I will not be a happy camper if I do.  I hope I found it in time before I burned a pit in the sealing surface.  The other 7 are all still tight on that side, but I'm with ya on yanking out all 16 and putting helicoils in all of them.  Guess I'll be calling my old friend and see what he can do for me.  This doesn't look like it would be a wise idea to try to drill out by hand.  The 10 mm studs are awfully close to the edge of the jug hole, and one tight helicoil could crack the block there.  In which case, I fork out for a new block, bearings, etc, etc.  I may just see if he's got another block.  New would be nice, but at $600, that's more than the old Baja's worth.

Well, the wish list just got a little longer.  Gotta replace the CV joints too. They've only got 300,000 + on them, and already worn out.  They just don't make stuff like they used to.  Those joints have seen 3 trannies, and at least 6 engines.  With the fat tires, I'm running coil-over shocks on the rear, as well as reset the torsion bars on the back when I replaced the bushings.  That set a pretty radical angle on the joints, which is probably what did them in.  Whenever I tow it, I yank the rear axles and CV's out of it so it just pulls like a 4 wheel trailer and doesn't spin all the goodies inside the gear box.  Doesn't take long to pop 'em out, and beats the heck outta unnecessary wear on the tranny as well as the extra drag when towing it.

Oh well, guess I could only hope for a simpler solution.  Thanks for the advice any way.
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