bschwarz77
I am pulling the heater boxes and putting in some new plain jane j-pipes instead.  I haven't gotten too far along yet, but as I was taking off the tins down there, I was noticing how they attach at two points to the heater boxes...which won't be there anymore.  Will this pose a problem or is there a part I might be missing that I didn't know about?  I'm also wondering if the hose from the fan housing that essentially ended up attached to the heater boxes can be capped off at the fan housing or what's the best thing to do with that?  I've read up a little on this but haven't found anything that specifically addresses either of these.

Thanks!

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MY72BUG
The tins will still be attached by other screws.  Although the heater boxes are gone it is wise to keep the tin in place anyway as it serves also to protect the push rod tubes etc from road debris and allows them to create a vacuum draft to extract hot air from the underside of the engine.  And yes the fan housing opening can be capped off.  MY72BUG has operated like this for years and is quite content to do so in this fashion.  Dan  ( MY72BUG) in Goderich, Ont.
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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bschwarz77
What about leaving those ports on the fan housing open allowing that air to flow into the engine compartment?  Would that be at all helpful in keeping engine temps down?  The only real concern I'd have is if that would allow unacceptable levels of debris in there.  On that train of thought, what if I clamped some wire screen over those ports?  Also, would doing that create too much air pressure in the engine compartment, thus  causing issues with the air intake through the oil bath air filter and into the carb?

Also, the third flex hose that comes down off the oil bath air filter that seems to be pulling air from between the tins and the push rods, is that to pull warm air for the carb in cold weather?  I'm curious if during Hot temps, I could pull that hose off or run it to another spot for air.  On that train of thought... what the heck would happen if you ran that hose to one of the ports on the fan housing?  Not so sure that would be a good idea...

Anything I can do that's simple and cheap to help keep her cool as the temperatures heat up here...

Thanks for all your advise Dan, you're a tremendous help!
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MY72BUG
Think of the fan and the engine tin as part of a sealed system.  The absolutely critical thing for an air cooled engine is the intake of air through the louvres in the engine cover or above the engine cover by the belt driven fan and the focus of this hurricane of air down through the cooling fins on the heads and cylinders of the engine.  If you open the seals anywhere you subtract from the force of that air movement and contribute to overheating the engine.  In my opinion any of those fan housing openings which are not in use should be sealed.  This is why ALL engine tin and things as small as the spark plug holes through the tin should be sealed up tight.  You cannot get too much air pressure in there.  You are right, that third hose up to the air breather snorkel is to bring hot air up to the carb intake to prevent carburetor icing.  The little door in there is controlled by either a cable in the pre 1970 ones or thermostatic controls in the later ones.  You should not have to change it around at all.  It is good to make sure that it is running right, however.   You are right to keep her cool.   Dan(MY72BUG) in Goderich
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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AlphaWolf
bschwarz77 wrote:
What about leaving those ports on the fan housing open allowing that air to flow into the engine compartment?  Would that be at all helpful in keeping engine temps down?  The only real concern I'd have is if that would allow unacceptable levels of debris in there.  On that train of thought, what if I clamped some wire screen over those ports?  Also, would doing that create too much air pressure in the engine compartment, thus  causing issues with the air intake through the oil bath air filter and into the carb?

Also, the third flex hose that comes down off the oil bath air filter that seems to be pulling air from between the tins and the push rods, is that to pull warm air for the carb in cold weather?  I'm curious if during Hot temps, I could pull that hose off or run it to another spot for air.  On that train of thought... what the heck would happen if you ran that hose to one of the ports on the fan housing?  Not so sure that would be a good idea...

Anything I can do that's simple and cheap to help keep her cool as the temperatures heat up here...

Thanks for all your advise Dan, you're a tremendous help!


Don't.  That air is your engines cooling air.  If you let it out before it gets to your heads your engine will overheat and BOOOM
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AlphaWolf
As far as the heater tin.  I just mounted mine with drag exhaust but I needed to trim it first.  It protects the push rod tubes so leave them in place if possible.
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bschwarz77
What's the best way to cap off those ports on the fan housing without having to fabricate or weld anything in place?  I can imagine a few different ways to do it, but what's tried and true?

Also, other than the stock tins, is there another piece I can use down there for more protection and better seal up under the block/push rod tubes for better air flow and thus better cooling?

Thanks everyone for your advise, this site is super helpful!

-Brian
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AlphaWolf
The best way is to do what I did, buy a 36hp dog house shroud without the heater ports at all. This looks much cleaner.  Works great.  They have them without the dog house if your engine is not running one now.

The cheap way is various vendors sell caps the you just either push over or push into the holes to block them off.    Or you can get any cap or plug that will fit tightly into those holes you will be good to go. 



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bschwarz77
My brother in law had an idea... we just used a couple clamps and scraps of some leather and capped them off.  I suppose that's as good as anything for now.  I'll get some proper metal caps as soon as I can find some.

Hey, another thing... with the new exhaust system I put in (http://www.mamotorworks.com/sizer?file=396400.jpg&max=400)
there's no way to fit that angled warm air pipe or "stove pipe" back in for the fresh air hose where the air filter housing should connect.  I had a new long piece of that hose on hand so I ran it up to the top of the engine compartment and let it sort of hang out up there.  It's there in such a way that water shouldn't get in.  I'm guessing that will be ok until it gets cold... then I need to maybe run it down through the hole for the stove pipe and let it hang out down there?  Any ideas or advice on that one?  Also, what can I use to block off the open holes from the two hoses that won't ever be there again?  I guess I could get a new tin for that huh?
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MY72BUG
There is a tin piece without holes which can be used to replace the existing one.  I used  two pieces of tin-plate and pop-rivets to cover mine but later added sheet metal tube fittings and fake heater pipes  to make the engine look more complete.  As for the other openings in the fan there are all sorts of plugs of various diameters available at automotive suppliers.  Finding one to fit the various holes is simple.  Glue the piece in with Automotive Goop and your fan will remain air-tight.  Dan (MY72BUG) in Goderich
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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olspeed

If my memory serves me correctly I think that a 2" cup plug and some permatex #2 should work just fine to plug off the holes in then fan shroud. Some tin and pop rivets will take care of the back plate, and on the warm air intake hose I have used the aluminized hose and just formed it to fit back up toward the push-rod tubes like the "stove pipe" tube you mentioned. Also if you do change to a aftermarket fan shroud make sure that it has the directional vanes in it. If you remove your old shroud and look inside you will see these vanes that direct air from the fan to the cylinders and the heads,these ARE important. when I worked at one of the local V-Dub shops back in the 80's I saw a lot of these aftermarket shrouds that had no vanes in them at all. This caused overheating problems even up here in AK. Please note not all of the aftermarket shrouds were this way, but make sure you check before you buy. 

66 Ghia 76 std Beetle
It's not a car it's a VolksWagon
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AlphaWolf
Basically anything that will keep the air from escaping is fine.  Just be sure it will not wear or come loose.



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