69bus

ok, so i bought a 1969 vw bus, type 2 1600cc motor, but it didn't run... so, slowly i have been working on it, learning something new every day. i got new: battery, plugs, wires,points and condensor, coil, ignition.  i hooked everything up, all the electrical wiring in the engine compartment, changed the oil, rebuilt the carb, and set the timing... and alas, she runs.  now, i know the basic things i need to do, like adjusting the valves, and setting the idle on the carburator (if not getting a new one), and i also gotta put my new accelerator cable in, cause my peddal sticks.
   so now to my problem, i can start the engine, but when the accelerator lever, on the carb is all the way closed, my carb makes a click noise and then if it is not quickly depressed, it dies.  hmmm? any input would be appreciated.
  also i have another problem, i can start the engine with the clutch fully depressed (pushed down), but when i let it out the engine starts to slow, if let out all the way, the engine dies...  got any ideas??
           i would like to hear what you think of my situation,
      thank you for your replies.
                                69bus   --out




ps.. anyone know where to get an emblem for cheap???
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MY72BUG
I think that the carburetor dieing is in some way related to the electromagnetic shut-off which is that tube shaped thing at the bottom right of your carb.  This must be a special unit for the engine in question as the device is usually at the lower left of the PICT carb.  What it does is to shut-off the flow of gas when you turn off your engine.  Get someone to turn the ignition key while you listen for that click sound.  This is the shut-off opening.  When you kill the ignition you should hear it click again as it closes.  If yours is clicking off while you want the engine to run, this just wont work.  Put a 12volt tester on it - a simple light will do.  If the light goes out while you want your engine to run, forget it because it will have no gas.  It is supposed to get its power from the coil.  Any other source wont be right.  So check that wiring.
      The clutch problem is a tricky one but I believe that you have to complete a clutch adjustment as for some reason the engine is still under load.  If you have the rear wheels jacked up does letting the clutch out with the tranny in neutral start the wheels moving?  Are you sure that your transmission isn't stuck in gear?  And ( now here's a long shot ) what sort of gear oil is in the tranny?  I have a 1977 Ford Grenada with a 4 speed factory standard transmission.  In VERY cold weather, which we do get up here in Canada, when I let the clutch out in neutral there is a turbine effect as the gears start to slosh in that SAE 90 gear oil.  It can be pronounced enough in the - 25 weather to actually stall the engine.  If some well meaning person tried to solve a tranny leak by putting super heavy lube in your tranny, you may well be experiencing this effect.
     For emblems go into the web site for CIP1.  A lot of that stuff is still available; believe it or not.  If it is rarer stuff, go to a Bug meet and people will have plenty of such to chose from.  Good luck with the project.  Let us know how it goes.  Dan (MY72BUG) in Goderich, Ont.


I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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Wayne

My buddy has a 1975 Bay Window and grabbed an emblem from a swap meet. He had it chromed and it turned out pretty nice.

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