which has better handling in stock form? i might buy a local 71' super and i know that that year it still had the flat windshield and dash. anyone know?
also, how many gallons does the gas tank hold, and how many pounds does a stock 71 super weigh? any info greatly appreciated.
ok so it should be right at 2,000 lbs, or just under it. besides the change in suspension, fuel vapor return (i think i has it) what all changed for the first super? does standard fenders fit the 71 super? I want to change the fenders to fiberglass. they're really isnt any rust on them, but here in Minnesota, it wont take long for that to change. So I figure 'glass is the way to go. I also want to get a glass trunk lid too. I saw a picture on cardomain that had large openings on the upper front of the inside door that looked like it could hold a 6" speaker. it was a 71 super and the hole looked like it was factory, not cut. what's the largest speaker a person could fit in the doors without too much altering? Thanx for the help.
I've had mine weighed once before and it was about 2200lbs, but with extra gear in it. The dry weight listed is just a hair under 2000lbs, but then add a tank of gas and anything you're carrying.
Supers and Stds are the same from the windsheild back, so the rear fenders are the same, but the fronts are not. Companies do make glass parts for Supers too, so it shouldn't be a problem.
You don't want speakers in the doors, they will get damaged very quickly and don't sound right. You want kick panels installed under the dash, also available from many sources. --Ryan
I expect it depends upon what your definition of "handling" is. I've actually always preferred the suspension of the Std. over the Super though, ironically, I've owned mostly Supers... two T-1303's and one 1302. I find the strut suspension of the Super to be too stiff for so small and light a car. Even with adequate bushings, new struts, etc, it bottoms out far harder than a Std. with front torsion-bar / shock abosorber suspension. The 1302's and 3's are also more prone to shimmies, over time, than the Standards. Also, from a practical standpoint pertaining to maintenance and repair, the Standard wins out on that count too. If any work needs to be done to the chassis, pans, or suspension, the front end suspension is independant of the body and can be removed or replaced. The unibody design of the Super front end provides problems when installing new pans, doing body resto, or repairing areas (like strut towers) that pertain to the suspension. It's far less costly and less of a pain to repair a Std front end.
A lot to give up, for me, for enlarged trunk capacity and tighter turning. But, that's just me.
ok, i just went and did a fairly good inspection of the bug i want. the trunk (front) and rear hood hace some slack in them, but neither have the gaskets so im guessing thats where the slop is from (like a 1/4"). besides needing some basic rubber item and paint, its in pretty good shape. the idler is steel, the strut bushings, tires, and brake lines are all new. how difficult is it to install window channel and glass scrapers in the doors? the ones in there are ok (scrapers are MIA) but they need to be done. it has an EMPI 4 tip exhaust, but it's rusty. I'll just replace it with a EMPI single glasspack style exhaust and it already has an aftermarket aircleaner on the PICT 3. one problem that does bother me is the oil light flickers at times. i know this can be from several things: oil pump bad/ worn bearings/ or can it be a bad sensor?? im hoping the last. the shifter is a lil sloppy but its the shifter itself, not the linkage (the shifter ball is worn and the owner removed his EMPI shifter which worked ok, and installed this junk one to sell the car).
You're comparing apples to oranges if you find a Super to be stiffer than a Std, one of them isn't stock. It may be as simple as gas shocks in one and oil in the other, or aftermarket springs that have the wrong rate (this is very common). I've never ridden in a Std that rode as smooth as my Super, even before I made any changes to it. There is also the benefit of front end geometry, the strut design is far superior to the torsion leaves if you want a car that takes turns. Most of that comes from a front end that adds negative camber the lower you go, this is great in cornering. The outside wheel will squat, add (-)camber and grab the road even harder.
Pans replace just like Stds, I've done it. Body off requires removing 6 extra nuts, the strut tower nuts, takes 1 minute. The only valid point is strut tower damage, yes it would be costly to repair if they were rusted out. Personally, I just wouldn't buy one like that and I maintain the one I own so no problems there. Same goes for the shimmies. Maintain the car and it will be trouble free, neglect it and it's your own fault. --Ryan
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