OldPunk
Guys:

  I have a 71 Standard and the trunk compartment hood will latch so that I need to push on the button on the handle to get it open. However, it won't go down far enough to latch with the lock mechanism which is activated via the handle in the glove box. I have tried adjusting the rod which is on the hood so that it would engage more with the latch mechanism in the nose of the Bug, but the rod's furthest adjustment is not enough.
  I'm beginning to suspect that the car has been mildly front-ended so that there is a slight, but significant displacement of the nose (in which the latch mechanism lives), pushing it down so that it is effectively further away from the rod in the hood.
  What do you think? Anyone encounter this before? What would be a fix? Thanks.
OldPunk
_______
Keep yer hands on the road and yer eyes upon the wheel.
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Wayne
I had a nightmare with this issue. I adjusted the pin as far as it would go and got it to latch. Then the cable broke and I could not open the trunk. I ended up going in through the access plug under the spare (which was out at the time) and tripping the lock with a L-O-N-G bent screwdriver.

All you can do is to try and move the lock so that it lines up with the striker and adjust the pin far out enough until it catches. If it doesn't you might have a problem with the alignment of the trunk.
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OldPunk

Thanks, Wayne. I've already tried adjusting the rod or pin as far out as i could, so it seems you and I agree it's likely an alignment issue with the trunk. Maybe I'll hoist the front end, then drop it on a block set right under the nose. maybe that will shove it back up. (Heeheehee)

OldPunk
_______
Keep yer hands on the road and yer eyes upon the wheel.
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MY72BUG
This is a common problem with the old bugs.  I have been down this road with my car and with that of a friend.  One thing you must do is to be sure that the release cable is doing its work.  As you pull the lever is there a good firm action down at the latch?  Of great importance is the plastic cover over the cable.  It must be tied down very firmly.  I found with mine that the movement of the release lever was expended in moving the plastic cover.  It moved the arc of the cable but did NOT actually cause a good ong movement in the latch.  Detach the cable down at the latch.  It is held in place by a set screw.  Elevate the cable and drip oil into it.  Lubricate the latch so that it is moving fully and freely.  Return the cable to its position at the side of the trunk and make sure that it is firmly attached so that moving the lever moves only the metal wire not the whole gizmo.  At this point you can reattach the cable.  Back out the adjustment of the spike part that goes into the latch receiver.  As you push the trunk shut you should hear two clicks.  When you pull the lever in the glove compartment you should hear one click.  The trunk should then open when you push the button on the release handle.  Experiment with adjusting the spike part in.  That will close the trunk tighter.  If you get to a point where it won't release, have someone push down on the trunk handle while you pull the lever.  This saved me having to cut the handle in half to access my trunk.  Good luck with the project.  Take you time doing it.  It may take several adjustments before you get it just right.  Afterwards, keep the whole works well lubricated.    Dan in Goderich
I'd rather have a partial bottle in front of me than a partial frontal lobotomy.
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Two things quickly come to mind.  Firstly, make sure the hood is still in proper shape.  Secondly, make sure that the hood is aligned properly.  If you slightly untighten the 4 bolts holding the hood onto the struts/arms then you'll be able to move and adjust the position of the hood to its proper position.  This can even work if the car isn't perfectly straight anymore...there's a reason why you have the ability to adjust this.
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Leave well enough alone. I latch the hood on my 72 super only on the first latch. I'm afraid that if I latch it on the second latch, someday, the cable will break (like Wayne's did). I have replaced the clutch cable and the accelerator cable. Thats enough for me. The hood won't fly open when I drive it at high speeds and I don't think anybody wants to steal my bald spare or a couple of old lawn chairs I keep in the trunk.  Gut fahren, beetledon

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Friedle
I agree with all the above strategies.  With my Super I got in the trunk with spare out, then my son shut it on me, (yes, he contemplated not opening it of course). With a flashlight I was able to see what was going on.  First start with a new cable so you know it will not break.  I know there is less room in the trunk of a standard beetle...maybe you know some little people you can trust?  It's a nice feature when you can lock your bonnet (the English term...).  Good luck, it will happen with patients, then you can contiune to drive the heck out of your bug , like I do!

Patrick.
'72 Super. Paint-7/20/09, 400+k miles, New engine case "41" Brazil, rebuilt German heads, new Bosch electrics, new Solex German carb. new German silencer. Built by Steve Tims Performance/Enterprises, Riverside CA. '73 OEM airfilter, (Fram elemement), chrome stock wheels, daily driver, 25.46-27.50mpg, driven 20+years.
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